All show and no go you might think, but then you don’t
know Heihei.
How good the food is becomes obvious at a glance. The
place is packed with Chinese people and it is not uncommon to spend some time
in the tiny waiting area or even on the street if you forgot to book a table –
sometimes the wait might even take up to an hour. If you are hungry this is
fatal.
If you do remember to call you are in for a treat. While the main focus is on Cantonese dishes, Heihei’s big strength is variety. If you had no idea that there is more to Chinese food than Chop Suey and Sweet Sour sauce, then you need to come here. From Beijing to Sichuan (the spicy province) there is something for everyone on the bi-lingual menu.
Chongqing chicken with chili(辣子鸡)
If you are brave enough you should try the Chongqing chicken
with chili(辣子鸡). I challenge anyone who doubts this is the best in
Newcastle to find a better one. These chicken chunks in a crispy batter are served
boneless, which is highly untypical for genuine Chinese food and a welcome move
to most Western mouths. The spicy explosion will probably cause some beads of
sweat if you are not used to the inhuman degrees of spice that are typical for
the areas Chongqing and Sichuan. The glaring red of countless dried chilies are
warning enough: not for the faint-hearted.
Braised whole aubergine(鳗鱼茄子)
Another gem is the braised whole aubergine(鳗鱼茄子), a
tasty change from the regular Chinese-style aubergines in soy sauce or sweet
sour sauce. This one has been sliced but remains as one, deep-fried in batter and
is positively ‘squishy’.
Shredded pork in Hoisin garlic sauce(京酱肉丝)
Although the overall quality of the food is very
impressive there are one or two things you should be aware of. First of all,
since this is Cantonese style cooking, certain dishes such as the shredded pork
in Hoisin garlic sauce(京酱肉丝) are served without sugar. If you are used to the
sweet sauces of Northern cooking you are in for a surprise. If, like me, you
just can’t get your head around this you only have two choices: avoid these
types of dishes or ask them to add sugar.
Also, prices are a little higher than in Chinatown –
Heihei is one of the few Chinese places not located on or in close proximity to
Stowell Street. If you enjoy good fish you will have to calculate £15
upwards per dish. However, the considering the atmosphere, the popularity and
the yummy dishes, it is definitely worth it.
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